Virginia: A visit to Chatham Manor, Fredricksburg

Historic Chatham Manor 

Built between 1768 and 1771 in the Georgian style by William Fitzhugh, Chatham Manor has been witness to the historic events that surround this area during both the Revolutionary and the Civil War. FitzHugh was a friend of George Washington and entertained him and many others on his thriving plantation. During his time there was a racetrack where he could pit his blooded horse against those of the other wealthy planters in the area. Fitzhugh’s daughter Molly would later marry George Washington’s step grandson George Washington Parke Custis. Their daughter would later marry Robert E Lee.

In 1806 Major Churchill Jones purchased the house and his family retained ownership for the next 66 years. At the time of the Civil War it belonged to James Horace Lacy. As a plantation and slave owner, his sympathies lay with the Confederacy and he joined as a staff officer. His wife and children remained at home until they were forced to leave by the Union army. They established their headquarters here in 1862.  Chatham Manor has the distinction of having been visited both by George Washington and Abraham Lincoln.

In November 1862, the assault on Fredericksburg by river was launched from below Chatham. Today you can see an example of what the bridge looked like on the property. The resulting Union defeat turned Chatham Manor into a hospital. At one point both Clara Barton and Walt Whitman were working with the wounded at Chatham. 

Later in the war, the house was used as housing and when fire wood grew scarce, the paneling was pulled from the walls and burned. When the war ended, the house had bare walls covered with graffiti and blood stained floors and the grounds had been used as a burial ground. The gardens no longer existed and the Lacys, who were no longer able to maintain it, left in 1872.

In the 1920's Daniel and Helen DeVore took on the task of restoring Chatham Manor. We owe the present condition of the property to their loving care. The property’s last owner John Lee Pratt opened it to the public and in 1975, willed it to the National Park Service.

Today as with many Park Service homes, there is very little furniture. What you get to see are the bones of what is a beautiful house. Jane was our Ranger and she took us though the house and told us the story of its history. More time is spent on its Civil War period than on the Colonial period but there are many more famous people visiting here during that time. What we do find out is the entrance area door is original.  

 We enter through the rear door of the house, the front is the door that faces the river. We walked through the garden to get to the back door, even in October there was plenty of color still left. Take the time to walk the grounds especially the front toward the river, the views are beautiful.

France: Favorite photos

Notre Dame in Paris

A really lovely dessert

Versailles

Oh yum an apple crepe

Flashback Thursday: Dining in the center of Dijon

We stopped for lunch at Le Grands Ducs after our morning at the Beaux Arts Museum. It is usual in France for museums to close for lunch, and this cafe was just across the street from the entrance to the museum courtyard. It was packed with local office people also out on their lunch breaks. A word of warning -- this whole restaurant was smokey, I would assume today the rules on smoking are different. We stayed because we were cold, tired, and hungry.

The decor was unexceptional, wooden tables, paper place mats, and napkins. Our table was tucked into a back corner, but there were no others available, so we were happy to get it.

I started with vegetable soup; everyone else ordered the onion. The onion soup was excellent, redolent with onion and a hint of wine, topped with thick bread and cheese. The vegetable, on the other hand, was Knorr, or I'll eat my beret, not even good Knorr. It certainly had me wondering why I hadn't ordered the onion.

Al was the brave one in the group; he ordered the Jambon Bourgeonneis, which was ham in a green aspic with cornichons (little pickles). It looked really gross to me, but Al said it tasted good. It's supposed to be a local specialty. It was served with bread and frites.

I opted for a Crocque Monsieur, which is a grilled cheese sandwich with the cheese on the outside. It was served with a salad with a creamy Dijon dressing. It was very good.

The service here was spotty. We got our drinks pretty quickly, but after that, nothing ever seemed to go quite right. Now, in all fairness, it was busy, so I will give them the benefit of the doubt.

The food was not worth coming here for; it was very ordinary, but the location is excellent. Sometimes we sacrifice the exceptional dining experience in favor of a short walk, especially on long days. The reviews of the restaurant pretty much share the experience that we had so don't expect much except convenience.

What's Happening In Nashville this Summer

Summer in Nashville

Nashville is having a hot time this summer and is putting together a soundtrack of everyone’s summer favorites for Music City visitors. Live music, unique festivals and events, culinary excursions, family fun and new exhibits all combined with summer sunshine and the great outdoors makes Nashville the perfect place for your summer getaway.
Also, make sure to check out what new things Nashville has to offer while listening to the “Summer Fun in Music City Playlist” and plan your trip to Music City!

Summertime concerts, festivals, and series Hope you have your calendar cleared, because you're not going to want to miss this summer in Nashville. It's back to back festivals, weekly series, fireworks, GRAMMY nominated artists, legendary acts, bucket-list concerts, and outdoor amphitheaters. To get you started, mark you calendar for CMA Music Festival, Music City July 4th: Let Freedom Sing, and Live on the Green. • 13 SUMMER MUSIC EVENTS IN NASHVILLE • SUMMERTIME MUSIC IN NASHVILLE • CHECK OUT MUSIC CITY'S VENUES • SEE UPCOMING CONCERTS

Free Music, Free Nashville Music City boasts a live music scene blasting out your favorite tunes each and every day for free. Why would we do such a crazy thing? Because music should be shared - we know that, and now you know that. Plus all the other free events, art galleries, and more that don't cost a thing to visit. • NASHVILLE'S FREE MUSIC SCENE • WHAT NASHVILLE OFFERS FOR FREE

Experience Something New Nashville's growing. New restaurants, new museums, and new festivals are popping up everywhere and we mean EVERYWHERE. The good news is that means there's even more to entertain your eyes, ears, and taste buds in Music City. • 9 NEW THINGS TO EXPERIENCE IN NASHVILLE • NASHVILLE'S NEW RESTAURANTS

JOIN THE CELEBRATION OF THE CULINARY ARTS Nashville doesn't just enjoy food, we celebrate it. During the summer months almost every week offers a party for the culinary arts inside Music City's eclectic neighborhoods. From beer festivals to full out wine celebrations there's something, in Nashville, for every type of foodie, wino, or craft beer enthusiasts. And at anytime enjoy the beautiful weather, a bite to eat, and a great drink at the many restaurants with awesome patio seating in Music City. • 12 SUMMER FOOD EVENTS IN NASHVILLE • SUMMERTIME FOOD IN NASHVILLE • MORE NASHVILLE FOOD EVENTS & EXPERIENCES • MUSIC CITY'S FOOD SCENE

Family Fun in Music City School's out for summer! And Nashville is the place to be to ensure you don't waste a second of all that freedom. There's one amazing zoo, multiple water parks, museums, exhibits, and more that will make both the kids and adults happy this season. • 14 THINGS YOU HAVE TO DO THIS SUMMER WITH FAMILY • 10 THINGS YOU CAN ONLY DO IN NASHVILLE FOR KIDS & FAMILIES • SUMMERTIME FAMILY FUN IN NASHVILLE • TAKE A LOOK AT SOME FAMILY FUN

TAKE PART IN NASHVILLE'S CREATIVE SIDE The talent in this town is not limited to music. Venture to any art gallery or performing arts event and you will see that Nashville holds something that no other city can match: a creative spirit bringing breathtaking performances and stunning visual art on a daily basis. • WHAT NASHVILLE'S ART SCENE IS DOING RIGHT NOW • SUMMERTIME ART IN NASHVILLE

HAVE A LITTLE FUN IN THE SUN Your next summertime adventure is in Music City. Here, in Nashville, we have rivers to kayak, lakes to swim, and parks to explore. Plus you can dust off the cobwebs on your bike to cycle the Music City Greenways! Don't forget to check out the new shiny, and OH! so pretty First Tennessee Park home of the Nashville Sounds. AND U.S. Men's National Soccer Team will play Guatemala at LP Field on Friday, July 3, at 5:30pm. • CHECK OUT SOME FUN IN THE SUN • SPORTS & RECREATION

---

Still looking for more?

No worries. Music City has you covered. Feel free to browse through things to do, explore our neighborhoods, or check out must-see in Music City! If you have any questions, just ask us on Twitter: @visitmusiccity.

Texas: McNay Museum San Antonio

In order to understand this museum, you need to understand the woman who created it. Jessie Marion Koogler was a woman born before her time. She was the only child of a Doctor who became wealthy when oil was discovered on his land. Jessie attended the University of Kansas then the art school of the Art Institute of Chicago, it was during this time that she began to use her middle name. In 1917 she fell in love and married the great love of her life, Don Denton McNay. 

Tragically he died in the influenza epidemic of 1918 less than a year after their marriage. Marion married and divorced several times but she always returned to the name McNay and also gave it to the Museum she left which was the ultimate tribute to Don.

In 1926, Marion commissioned a house in San Antonio which she called Sunset Hills. Built in the Spanish Colonial Revival Style it is the home which holds her collection today. Around this same time, she became a serious collector of Art, at one time there was even a school of art on the property. The first painting she purchased is entitled, Delfina Flores.

When Marion died in 1950, she left a collection of over 200 items and it was opened to the public in 1954. She also left an endowment and together with further donations the collection has grown to over 1600 items about 900 of which will be on display at any given time. The McNay is primarily about modern art but you will be amazed by the wonderful medieval items. You walk into recreated rooms that take you to back to the middle ages complete with paneling and furniture and works of Flemish art. 

There is no guarantee about what will be on display but we saw a Mary Cassatt head of a young girl, Degas, Seurat, Pendergast, Homer, Picasso, Klee, Chagall and a monumental Monet of can you guess lily pads. There is also a nice collection of Galle vases.

The Interior courtyard, The Blackburn patio is worthy of a tour. The tiles were made especially made for the patio. It is the home to several very beautiful sculptures done in bronze and one in aluminum. It was used as an outdoor artist studio in Mrs. McNay’s day and is still a favorite spot to sketch today.

We began our visit by watching a short orientation film that introduced us to Marion and the museum. Don’t pass on this, it really sets the stage for your visit. The museum is set on two levels but there is an elevator and is wheelchair accessible.

Free parking is available in their parking lot. Take the time to walk in the grounds. There are sculptures and even in January, the gardens were worth a look. The gift shop as expected was quite well stocked with a variety of eclectic items. Entrance is free but you are strongly encouraged to donate $5 per person.

Additional reading about things to do in San Antonio:

Madhatters Tea Room

The Alamo

Texas: MadHatters Tea House and Cafe San Antonio

What a great name for a tea shop and café, MadHatters. It is every bit as interesting as its name would imply. There are three dining areas in this café though the back room was closed when we were there.

The idea is quite simple. You get a menu from one of the employees and find a table. You then decide what you are going to try and go to the cashier and order. If you are having hot tea, then stop by and pick up your cup and saucer. When your food is ready it will be delivered to your table.

We were debating the pros and cons of ordering the high tea and the afternoon tea. Both are $18 for two people The high tea gives you three types of sandwiches, a scone to share and 2 petit fours. The afternoon tea has cream cheese and smoked salmon sandwiches and cream cheese and cucumber sandwiches, two scones, and two petit fours. I don’t like salmon and Joe didn’t want to share a scone. Al didn’t want to eat so we twisted his arm.

We decided it was every man for him or herself. Al got the club sandwich, I ordered the cream cheese and cucumber sandwiches from the tea menu and Joe got a cup of pumpkin soup and half of an egg salad sandwich. Joe and I both got a pot of English breakfast tea and both of us ordered the 4 berry cobbler served warm with ice cream.

We went happily back to our table to wait for our feast. It wasn’t long to arrive. First, the tea is in very different and eclectic pots arrived. Then came Al’s sandwich, I have never seen the like, it was huge, I mean two man huge. Even Al who is a good eater was intimidated by this behemoth. Ham, turkey bacon, tomato lettuce and huge slices of bread and excellent flavor to boot. My sandwich was served crustless with a sliced strawberry in the center of the plate, these were not only pretty but very delicious sandwiches. Joe’s half an egg salad sandwich was also huge but the cup of soup was normal size.

The four-berry cobbler was served in small cups very warm with a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream. It was perfect, not too sweet with loads of berry flavor.

If having tea is not your idea of a good time don’t despair their menu offers plenty of other options. As I have stated the sandwiches certainly are generous, there are salads and burgers and lots of vegetarian choices as well. The dessert case was also loaded with pies and cakes and all sorts of very delicious looking items.

They open early in the morning and served breakfast as well. I am almost sorry that we will be getting breakfast at our B&B because I would have liked to try some of the things that they offer here. We did, however, return for lunch another day.

Flash back Thursday: Hotel Dieu Beaune

In the mid 15th century a wealthy man named Nicholas Rolin and his wife were touched by the plight of the poor in Burgundy, some say they may also have had a fear of losing their souls (the rich and the eye of the needle and all that), whatever their reason,  the results are the stunningly beautiful Hotel Dieu in Beaune. Though the outside of the building resembles nothing less than a fortress the interior courtyard is ablaze in color. The roof is covered with glazed tiles in beautiful colors that are a work of art in themselves.

This was a hospital like no other you have ever seen. It was modern way beyond its time.

The Hotel Dieu has its own well-protected source of clean water, the patients were not expected to share a bed unless there was a great epidemic or some other catastrophe. Each patient had a bed, their own bed linens, their own eating utensils made of pewter and their own chair. The hospital had a cure rate far beyond other hospitals of its time and just the fact that they kept the patients separate can explain why they didn't contaminate each other.

The great room of the poor looks into the chapel so the spiritual life of the sick was not neglected either. The room itself is large and airy with a beautiful painted ceiling and painted cross beams. The beds have bright red blankets and the poor must have felt like they had gone to heaven to be able to stay here.

I loved the apothecary. The whole room was filled with wonderful faience jars where herbs were stored. You can read the names, Valerian was one I remember. There are wax figures in some of the rooms so that you get an idea of what it would have been like here.

But of course, the reason we stopped here was not just to see the hospital but to see the fantastic polyptych "The Last Judgement" by Rogier van der Weyden. It is kept in a room where the temperature is controlled and there is a guard on duty. And no wonder, this is a marvelous piece of art. The colors are still bright and fresh and the subject matter can really get you thinking. A large magnifying glass moves over the surface of the piece and you get a very close look at the faces of the damned. Makes you not want to be among them I can tell you. It also makes you wonder how he could have ever painted that much small detail over 500 years ago without a magnifying glass.

The Hotel Dieu is a wonderful place to visit, it was one of my favorite stops in Burgundy. Very interesting. They have a very superior gift shop too and you can't get out without going through it. 

We found parking on a side street near the Hotel Dieu in Beaune so were able to poke a little in the shops in the area as well while we were there. 

Pitfalls of Online Booking

These days, most people are all too familiar with online booking. You can get hotel reservations by using your computer, your tablet, and even your smartphone. It is fast, convenient and at times confusing. 

Some pitfalls that you need to watch out for when booking online are:

Third-party booking agents

Have you ever tried to simply book a hotel and found yourself on a third party site? Some of these like Booking.com and Hotels.com are fine and have competitive rates, however, if you want to get reward credits, this is not the way to go. You may also find that hotels are not quite as happy when you use a consolidator, not always but sometimes. 

The problem with some other sites is that you may find yourself hijacked and charged booking fees. You should never pay a fee to book a hotel, seriously, you are giving them your business and you are going to be charged extra, I think not!!

You also may not be able to specify what type of bed you want. For me this is the most important issue, I do not want a double bed under any circumstances, it must be at least a queen or twins.

Overseas booking

When you are booking a  room outside the country, I am most familiar with Europe, I often deal directly with the hotel by email. It cuts down on misunderstandings and confusion. You will have the email later if there is any discrepancy. You also get to know the staff and it can be helpful, really in my experience as helpful as Tripadvisor in determining if this is a place you will feel comfortable staying. Always ask if breakfast is included in the rate, often it is.

In conclusion, always look your reservations over carefully. Be sure you are getting exactly what you requested. make sure it is the exact hotel you requested and check the dates and check-in policy. Also, before making the booking, read the cancellation policy. This is one area that is often overlooked and if you don't want to find yourself charged for a room you aren't going to use, be sure that you can cancel before you hit the send button. If in doubt, call the hotel directly using Skype or Whatsapp.