Monday, May 20, 2019

Northamptonshire: Eleanor Cross Geddington

Eleanor Cross

One of the great love stories of medieval England is that of Eleanor of Castile and King Edward I (known as the hammer of the Scots). Though their's was an arranged marriage they grew to love each other dearly, had 12 children together, and she followed him on his crusade to the Holy Land. A story states that she saved his life by sucking the poison from a wound he received on the Crusade.

In 1290 she was stricken ill in Harby, near Lincoln and died before her husband could reach her from Scotland. He was inconsolable and ordered her body to be embalmed and her entrails buried at Lincoln Cathedral. He then began the sad trip to bring her home to London for her final rest at Westminster Abbey.

At every place where her body rested along the route he built a cross in her honor, thus there were originally 12 crosses built. The most famous was Charing Cross in London. The original no longer exists, but 3 originals do. The one in Geddington, Northamptonshire was on our route between Lincolnshire and Oxfordshire and I was delighted to be able to stop and see it.

As it turns out this is the finest of the crosses still in existence. It is a beautiful stone monument decorated with carving and statues and it sits right down the hill from the Church of St Mary Magdalene where her body spent the night. 
This cross is a tribute to the love between a husband and a wife and a national treasure. That it ever existed is amazing enough but that it still exists is truly astounding.

Monday, May 13, 2019

One of my favorite "Treasure Houses" Woburn Abbey

Woburn Abbey has been the home of the Dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years. The current Duke does not live here, he lives in France. However, his son, the Marquis of Tavistock, and his family do make Woburn their home. We were interested in seeing 2 Gainsborough landscapes that are in the private family rooms so we emailed ahead and were granted permission to see them. Lavinia was very gracious in taking us in and talking extensively about them and the on-going preservation and display of the Duke's magnificent art collection.

Luckily we visited on a day when the breakfast room was open to the public. It has eight portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds including a self-portrait. You will notice that I have no interior pictures as photography was not allowed (I did sneak a few in the vault) but I didn't want to jeopardize our visit to the private apartment.

This is a very large house but it retains the feeling of a family home with the inclusion of family pictures on tables and mantles.

The Canaletto Room is unbelievable. It is a magnificent blend of red, white and gold. The 21 pictures are spotlighted in a way that shows them to perfection. The long windows in this room overlook the private gardens on one side and the lake on the other.

A delightful portrait of Lady Georgina (Byng) Russell is in the Hall.  She was too lively to fit the mold of the usual Duchess of Bedford and received criticism for her lack of decorum. It didn't seem to bother her a bit.

In the long Tudor gallery, you can get a history lesson in portraits of the Tudor dynasty. A famous painting of Queen Elizabeth I by George Gower shows her with her hand on a globe, to her left is Jane Seymour and above Jane, Charles Brandon and Mary Tudor (his wife). Above Elizabeth are Edward VI and a young Queen Mary.

In the vaults, are cases of Meissen, Japanese porcelein and a magnifient Sevres set with the Vincennes Blue color also rooms of silver which are mind boggeling and gold plate dinner serving pieces.

By now a case of lovely minatures seems to be a lovely relief from all the oppulence. The minatures include a beatiful portrait of Lady Georgina as a child, Napoleon, Elizabeth Keppel and Rachel Wroithesy.

The tour takes you up and down stairs several times. If you are not able to do this then you will be unable to visit here.

Plan to visit the very upscale Antique Center and two gift shops. You can grab a bite to eat as well, we usually do. 

The cost of entry to Woburn Abbey was 
£18.00 when we visited which includes the house and the gardens.  The house opens for the season in April, be sure to check to make sure it will be open when you want to visit. 

Monday, May 6, 2019

Stoberry House B&B Wells, England

What first attracted us to Stoberry House was their lovely website which highlights the stunning views of the Cathedral in Wells and if I am totally honest the platter of fresh fruit that is part of the signature breakfast was a big attraction as well.



Stoberry House is one accommodation that not only lives up to the hype it far surpasses it. This is so much more than we ever expected. Frances and Tim were available when we called to get directions. We got turned around and really we were very close when we got going. The entrance gate is narrow so leave your caravan at home.

You know as soon as you enter the park that this is not your average bed and breakfast. You don’t have to worry about finding a place to be alone, there are small cozy rooms everywhere and a lounge with stunning views of the Cathedral. Breakfast is also served in the lounge. We were welcomed with tea and cakes and plenty of good solid information about what we might want to see. We were given a good number of brochures and books to help us make our decision.



We had two rooms,  Lady Hamilton which is the best room in the house and the Silk Room. This was actually a fortuitous choice of rooms. They were right across the hall from each other and both were lovely. Lady Hamilton has a canopy bed with a large bathroom with a huge tub. A dressing table is located in the closet and of course a bathrobe and slippers. The bathroom has lovely views of the garden.


The Silk Room has a king bed with a half tester. It is a stunning room and the bed has to be one of the most comfortable I have ever slept in. You are just surrounded by luxury and your every comfort has been thought of. Coffee and tea making is provided in the room and also in the small guest kitchen as well as a flat-screen TV, WiFi,
and very luxurious amenities. I felt very much like a princess. On the nightstand is a bottle of Cheddar water on a crystal tray with two crystal glasses. Even the coffee cups in the tea making set up are Wedgwood.



Breakfast is beyond anything I have ever seen. You can add a cooked breakfast for a small fee and we did have the pancakes with bacon and real maple syrup which were phenomenal. The Continental that comes with the rate is so extensive that you could easily survive on just that. Another morning we had the cooked breakfast for two and it was enough to feed the three of us. We opted for scrambled eggs along with the fried mushrooms, potatoes, tomatoes, local sausage, and bacon. It is served on a platter allowing you to help yourself to what you like.

The fruit platter is to die for, all fresh fruits with honey. The continental buffet includes yogurt, juices, muesli and cereal, cheeses and when I say cheeses I don’t mean a few slices, this is pieces of local Somerset cheese that you cut off a slice for yourself. Frances bakes fresh muffins and scones every day and with bread and croissants as well. Along with the homemade jam and marmalade are local jams and Frances’ own sauces. You will be assured of not leaving the table with an empty stomach.

Stoberry House is an easy walk into Wells where there are a variety of restaurants to choose from.

If you are looking to be pampered in a house of outstanding beauty, Stoberry House is certainly the place to come in Somerset. You will get 5-star service at a price that even the average tourist can afford. A stay at Stoberry House is all about making sure that you enjoy yourself, Frances will adjust the time of your breakfast or your room cleaning service to fit you and your schedule, it is amazing.

All other bed and breakfasts pale in comparison and I highly recommend this as an amazing place to stay. As part of your stay here, a visit to historic Wells Cathedral is a must.