Oxfordshire: The Ashmolean Museum

If I had to say what kind of museum the Ashmolean is I would reply an art, history, and science museum.  This is a repository of an eclectic collection of items.

In Room 2 the Minster Lovell Jewel is a superb example of 9th-century craftsmanship and a rare example of enameling from this period. Also in the same room, there are some beautiful examples of Anglo Saxon gold work as well as a magnificent Limoges Reliquary of St Thomas Becket.

Among the oddities of this museum are the death mask of Oliver Cromwell and a pair of gloves presented to Queen Elizabeth I which are obviously too big to have ever fit her hands.

As an American, I found Powhatan's mantle of particular interest. He was Pocahontas' father.

One of the treasures of the Ashmolean is the Alfred Jewel. It is in a case by itself. It is made of gold and cloisonne enamel covered in rock crystal. Written on it is "Alfred ordered me to be made".

Rooms are filled with a wonderful collection of clocks, some shaped like a cross, one made of shells. Cases of rings done in sections by purpose, betrothal, ecclesiastic, etc. dazzle the eye.

I loved the collection of Italian ceramic plates from the 15th century. Lots of blues and yellows with religious and mythological scenes. Among the art on display are 2 Van Dykes, one of Queen Henrietta Maria and an Allan Ramsey of Flora McDonald. Also on display were some exquisite Raphael drawings.

For lovers of Egyptology, there are wall fragments from El Amarna the home of Tuttenkhaman's father Akhenaten and his wife Nefertiti, it shows 2 daughters Neferure and Nefernefeuaten.

The Ashmolean is open Tuesday-Sunday. They have a great cafe and a wonderful and extensive gift shop. Parking in Oxford can be a problem which is why we came in on Sunday. Another option is the commuter parking lots outside the city. There is no entrance fee.

Ashmolean Museum

Beaumont Street

Oxfordshire, England

Oxfordshire: Minster Lovell Hall

The original name of the village was Minster which is taken from the Latin word for church. The Lovell was attached late in the 13th century to distinguish it from the adjacent manor of Little Minister which belonged to the Earl of Pembroke. When the Lovell family came into possession of the Hall is not certain but it was in the possession of the family in 1184. Minster was not the Lovell family's principal seat until the middle of the 14th century when it became a regular residence.

The mansion was most likely built between 1431 and 1442. There are licenses granted during this period to Sir William Lovell to impark a parcel of land called Minsterwoods adjacent to his manor at Minster Lovell. The fact that he was making a park may indicate that he was enlarging his home.

The last and most famous of the Lovells was Francis, Viscount Lovell a close friend of King Richard III. He fought with him at Bosworth Field and after Richard's defeat, he escaped to Flanders. He returned 2 years later to take part in Lambert Simnel's Rebellion. 

He is generally thought to have died at the Battle of Stoke but there is a story from the 1700s when the Duke of Rutland is quoted as saying Minster Lovell Hall was having a repair done to a chimney when they came across a hidden room in which sat the entire skeleton of a man dressed in the period of Richard III. 

Did Lord Francis come to a sad end? No one will ever know. I looked at the chimney area over quite carefully and could see no evidence of a room.

Today Minster Lovell Hall is a beautiful and romantic ruin set in the Oxfordshire countryside. No entrance is charged to walk among the remains. It is sad that it was let go and yet it is much more interesting in its own way than just another country home.

As we walked through the walls we could hear the doves cooing from the round dovecote on the property. It was a haunting sound.

The property was purchased by Edward Coke and there is reason to believe he resided there. Thomas Coke even spent his honeymoon here. After Holkham was completed parts of it were demolished and the stones quarried, the rest was just abandoned. Today it belongs to English Heritage. Entrance is free and parking is at the beginning of the road beyond the church.

The Church or Minster is dedicated to St Kenelm and quite interesting in its own right. It is over 500 years old and has a very interesting effigy of a Knight on a grave which I assume is one of the Lovells. There is also a 15th-century baptismal font. I spent some time in the churchyard reading the tombstones, always an interesting pastime.

When it comes to ruins, this is a lovely one and I highly recommend a visit.