Quebec: The Shrine of St Anne de Beaupre

Saint Anne de Beaupre is probably the most famous shrine in North America; certainly, it is the most famous in Canada. It began as a simple sailor’s chapel dedicated to Ste. Anne and has grown into a magnificent basilica that is visited by the faithful from around the world. 

I have to admit that I have always had a fascination with Ste. Anne, even before I realized that I am related to three recipients of miracles at the shrine. Actually, the first miracle was given to Louis Guimont and the best translation calls it a terrible pain in his back. He was totally cured as he placed 3 stones into the foundation of the chapel as it was being built. This was in 1658, unfortunately, his cure didn’t stop him from being killed by the Iroquois in 1661.

The Present Basilica is the fifth church to be built here. It is a magnificent sight as you drive up along the river and I was even more impressed when I viewed it at a distance from the Ile d'Orleans. It dwarfs everything else in the neighborhood. The twin spires frame a statue of Ste. Anne that was salvaged from the previous church, which was lost to fire in 1922. What you notice first about the interior of the Basilica are all the crutches that are hung on the wall in mute testimony to the many cures that have occurred here. Mass goes on almost unceasingly here, mostly in French and there are thousands of candles burning in supplication. I had a hard time finding a spot to place mine.

There is a memorial chapel to the side of the basilica and there are lots of memorial plaques, I dragged my family through the two chapels to read the names of all of our relatives. On the hill, there are life-size stations of the cross and the truly devote climb up the stairs to them on their knees. That part is optional. The Redemptorists took over the care of the Basilica over 100 years ago and there is always someone available to hear confession or just to talk. They are in a small building close to the parking lot.

It goes without saying that they have a fabulous gift shop. It isn’t just the religious items that draw people here (though they have a wide and high-quality selection). People come to the gift shop to buy genealogy books. The series Nos Ancetres (Our Ancestors) is published in Ste. Anne and the latest volume is usually available here in both French and English. Be warned the English version is about twice as expensive. I have all 30 volumes in French.

Ste. Anne de Beaupre is about 22 miles east of Quebec and an easy drive from the city. If you want to come for lunch or dinner there are plenty of restaurants.

Washington DC: Visiting Hillwood

Hillwood Museum is an amazing house and garden and if you are going to be visiting Washington, D.C. it is worthwhile to plan to visit, call ahead and make a reservation. A limited number of visitors are allowed each day. We called several months in advance. Access to the grounds is controlled; you will be asked if you have reservations. A note here: there are no children under six allowed in the house. When you see how it is set up you will understand why. You cannot carry your purse, a water bottle and in my case, I had to take off my leather blazer.

How to get there

You can take the Metro to the Van Ness stop and walk but it is a good hike and the road is not flat. We took a cab but be sure your driver knows how to get to Hillwood. Have the address with you and make sure the driver can find it; even taking all precautions it is not an easy place to find. When you leave there is a courtesy phone to a cab company who will come and pick you up, they know where it is.

Allow at least three or four hours for your visit. A 12-minute video is offered that is worth viewing before you tour the house. The audio tour for the house takes 90 minutes, and there is another tour of the gardens. While you are there you may want to have lunch or tea at the cafe and there is a wonderful gift store.

Why visit Hillwood

In order to understand Hillwood, you need to know who Marjorie Merriweather Post is. She is the heiress to the Postum Cereal fortune. Her father invented Post Grapenuts, and that alone made her a very wealthy woman. Beyond that she was an extraordinary collector, with an excellent eye which was further trained by the curator she hired. She developed a lifelong love of all things Russian while living there in the 1930s with her third husband who was the U.S. Ambassador. 

You will see a fabulous collection of Russian art, Faberge, and icons. The Faberge alone is worth the price of admission. The Lusupov music box is beyond stunning, it is beyond description and there are two imperial Easter eggs as well.


Limiting the description to just that, does the house a disservice, but the collection is so vast and varied that you really need to see it yourself. We were befriended by one of the docents, Rebecca Perl, and she seemed to be in every room that we visited, giving lots of extra details and information. She loves this house and it shows. On the second floor, you will visit the private rooms and get a more personal look at Marjorie Merriweather Post.

Gardens

When you have finished touring the house, be sure to visit the gardens and greenhouses. The 3,000 orchids in the greenhouses are gorgeous and so exotic. The audio tour is 60 minutes.

We also booked afternoon tea. It was a very enjoyable meal after the wonders that we had seen in the house.

If you are going to be in Washington, D.C. and want to do something beyond just the monuments and museums, Hillwood is a breath of fresh air in the city.