Eleanor Cross
One of the great love stories of medieval England is that of Eleanor of Castile and King Edward I (known as the hammer of the Scots). Though their's was an arranged marriage they grew to love each other dearly, had 12 children together, and she followed him on his crusade to the Holy Land. A story states that she saved his life by sucking the poison from a wound he received on the Crusade.
In 1290 she was stricken ill in Harby, near Lincoln and died before her husband could reach her from Scotland. He was inconsolable and ordered her body to be embalmed and her entrails buried at Lincoln Cathedral. He then began the sad trip to bring her home to London for her final rest at Westminster Abbey.
At every place where her body rested along the route he built a cross in her honor, thus there were originally 12 crosses built. The most famous was Charing Cross in London. The original no longer exists, but 3 originals do. The one in Geddington, Northamptonshire was on our route between Lincolnshire and Oxfordshire and I was delighted to be able to stop and see it.
As it turns out this is the finest of the crosses still in existence. It is a beautiful stone monument decorated with carving and statues and it sits right down the hill from the Church of St Mary Magdalene where her body spent the night. This cross is a tribute to the love between a husband and a wife and a national treasure. That it ever existed is amazing enough but that it still exists is truly astounding.
Woburn Abbey has been the home of the Dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years. The current Duke does not live here, he lives in France. However, his son, the Marquis of Tavistock, and his family do make Woburn their home. We were interested in seeing 2 Gainsborough landscapes that are in the private family rooms so we emailed ahead and were granted permission to see them. Lavinia was very gracious in taking us in and talking extensively about them and the on-going preservation and display of the Duke's magnificent art collection.
Luckily we visited on a day when the breakfast room was open to the public. It has eight portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds including a self-portrait. You will notice that I have no interior pictures as photography was not allowed (I did sneak a few in the vault) but I didn't want to jeopardize our visit to the private apartment.
This is a very large house but it retains the feeling of a family home with the inclusion of family pictures on tables and mantles.
The Canaletto Room is unbelievable. It is a magnificent blend of red, white and gold. The 21 pictures are spotlighted in a way that shows them to perfection. The long windows in this room overlook the private gardens on one side and the lake on the other.
A delightful portrait of Lady Georgina (Byng) Russell is in the Hall. She was too lively to fit the mold of the usual Duchess of Bedford and received criticism for her lack of decorum. It didn't seem to bother her a bit.
In the long Tudor gallery, you can get a history lesson in portraits of the Tudor dynasty. A famous painting of Queen Elizabeth I by George Gower shows her with her hand on a globe, to her left is Jane Seymour and above Jane, Charles Brandon and Mary Tudor (his wife). Above Elizabeth are Edward VI and a young Queen Mary.
In the vaults, are cases of Meissen, Japanese porcelein and a magnifient Sevres set with the Vincennes Blue color also rooms of silver which are mind boggeling and gold plate dinner serving pieces.
By now a case of lovely minatures seems to be a lovely relief from all the oppulence. The minatures include a beatiful portrait of Lady Georgina as a child, Napoleon, Elizabeth Keppel and Rachel Wroithesy.
The tour takes you up and down stairs several times. If you are not able to do this then you will be unable to visit here.
Plan to visit the very upscale Antique Center and two gift shops. You can grab a bite to eat as well, we usually do.
The cost of entry to Woburn Abbey was £18.00 when we visited which includes the house and the gardens. The house opens for the season in April, be sure to check to make sure it will be open when you want to visit.
What first attracted us to Stoberry House was their lovely website which highlights the stunning views of the Cathedral in Wells and if I am totally honest the platter of fresh fruit that is part of the signature breakfast was a big attraction as well.
Stoberry House is one accommodation that not only lives up to the hype it far surpasses it. This is so much more than we ever expected. Frances and Tim were available when we called to get directions. We got turned around and really we were very close when we got going. The entrance gate is narrow so leave your caravan at home.
You know as soon as you enter the park that this is not your average bed and breakfast. You don’t have to worry about finding a place to be alone, there are small cozy rooms everywhere and a lounge with stunning views of the Cathedral. Breakfast is also served in the lounge. We were welcomed with tea and cakes and plenty of good solid information about what we might want to see. We were given a good number of brochures and books to help us make our decision.
We had two rooms, Lady Hamilton which is the best room in the house and the Silk Room. This was actually a fortuitous choice of rooms. They were right across the hall from each other and both were lovely. Lady Hamilton has a canopy bed with a large bathroom with a huge tub. A dressing table is located in the closet and of course a bathrobe and slippers. The bathroom has lovely views of the garden.
The Silk Room has a king bed with a half tester. It is a stunning room and the bed has to be one of the most comfortable I have ever slept in. You are just surrounded by luxury and your every comfort has been thought of. Coffee and tea making is provided in the room and also in the small guest kitchen as well as a flat-screen TV, WiFi, and very luxurious amenities. I felt very much like a princess. On the nightstand is a bottle of Cheddar water on a crystal tray with two crystal glasses. Even the coffee cups in the tea making set up are Wedgwood.
Breakfast is beyond anything I have ever seen. You can add a cooked breakfast for a small fee and we did have the pancakes with bacon and real maple syrup which were phenomenal. The Continental that comes with the rate is so extensive that you could easily survive on just that. Another morning we had the cooked breakfast for two and it was enough to feed the three of us. We opted for scrambled eggs along with the fried mushrooms, potatoes, tomatoes, local sausage, and bacon. It is served on a platter allowing you to help yourself to what you like.
The fruit platter is to die for, all fresh fruits with honey. The continental buffet includes yogurt, juices, muesli and cereal, cheeses and when I say cheeses I don’t mean a few slices, this is pieces of local Somerset cheese that you cut off a slice for yourself. Frances bakes fresh muffins and scones every day and with bread and croissants as well. Along with the homemade jam and marmalade are local jams and Frances’ own sauces. You will be assured of not leaving the table with an empty stomach.
Stoberry House is an easy walk into Wells where there are a variety of restaurants to choose from.
If you are looking to be pampered in a house of outstanding beauty, Stoberry House is certainly the place to come in Somerset. You will get 5-star service at a price that even the average tourist can afford. A stay at Stoberry House is all about making sure that you enjoy yourself, Frances will adjust the time of your breakfast or your room cleaning service to fit you and your schedule, it is amazing.
All other bed and breakfasts pale in comparison and I highly recommend this as an amazing place to stay. As part of your stay here, a visit to historic Wells Cathedral is a must.
Any time of year is a great time to visit New England but there are some places that have special springtime appeal. Here are some of my favorite springtime destinations in New England.
Skiing Vermont
Skiing is still alive and well in many areas of Vermont well into the spring. Especially at the higher elevations, the snow can last as late as May. Before heading to any of the ski slopes be sure to check to see which ones are still open.
National Seashore
The National Seashore is a joy in the spring, the air is fresh with the scent of the ocean and the crowds who flock to the cape during the summer have yet to arrive. The weather in late May and early June is already getting warm and there are great restaurants, antique stores and lighthouses to visit besides for just a quiet walk on the beach.
The mansions
Spring is the ideal time to head to Newport, Rhode Island. Again the crowds of summer haven’t arrived yet and the mansion gardens are in full bloom. You can visit one mansion such as Rough Point or get a ticket that allows you into several of the mansions owned by The Preservation Society of Newport Just walking along Bellevue Avenue is a great springtime pastime.
Route 1
Route 1 in Maine is a special place to visit in the spring. There are places to shop and eat and antique stores abound. A stop off in Portland can involve the Portland Art Museum or just poke around in the Old Port shopping area. Wear a bib, eat a lobster and have wild blueberry pancakes for breakfast. Spring in Maine is a wonderful time.
Restored villages
New England is awash in history and these four historic villages are fun to visit in the spring and honestly, just about any time of year.
Plimoth Plantation in Plymouth, Massachusetts is a living history museum where the date is the 1620 and the residents are the original Pilgrims who came from England to found the colony along with the Wampanoag Indians.
Old Sturbridge Village in Sturbridge, Massachusetts is also a recreated farming village, it covers the period from1790-1840. The residents go about their regular daily lives and the visitors get to observe and interact.
Strawberry Banke in Portsmouth, New Hampshire takes the visitor through over 200 years of history, all in one place. These homes were rescued and preserved to serve as a history museum.
Mystic Seaport in Mystic, Connecticut takes you back to an earlier time when whaling was an occupation that was common in New England. There are ships and buildings to visit and there are adventures that can take place on the water.
Spring is a lovely time of year to visit New England. Every state has its own attractions. Choose one or choose them all but why not head to the northeast this spring?
The DoubleTree Hotel in downtown Manchester, NH used to the Radisson. It is a convention hotel and my friend Kathy visited to attend the 2019 NERGC. We had a two queen bedded room on the fourth floor. The hotel is recently renovated and the room was quite lovely. One thing we did notice that we didn't enjoy was that the hotel is directly in the flight path to Manchester Airport. Also, it was excessively windy when we were there and it literally whistled through our heating unit. Good thing we are both good sleepers.
The staff at the hotel are wonderful. From Brendan at check-in and check-out to Sophia who cleaned our room and left us a wonderful thank you note for her tip, it was all so friendly. We ate twice at The Current, the lobby restaurant and not only was the service flawless, but the food was also really good.
Our beds were comfortable, the internet connection was strong and easy to access, we had a Keurig coffee maker and a fridge in the room. We would have enjoyed a microwave as well but there is one in the lobby that guests can use 24/7.
The bathroom was a good size and the shower had plenty of pressure. We were given two very nice sized bath towels but 3 or 4 would have been better. And who can fault a hotel that gives you a warm chocolate cookie not only at check-in but at check-out and just about anytime in between that you ask for one!!
Parking is underneath the hotel and cost us $12 a night. The room rate was $169 a night which was a bit steep but it really is a nice place with a great location for walking to lots of restaurants in downtown Manchester.
I highly recommend Downtown Doubletree Hotel if you are going to be in the Manchester NH area.
If you can only take one tour while you are in Newport, make it the Servant Life Tour at the Elms. This is the only one that will take you where the family would never have gone, through the world of the servants. This is a very popular tour and you will need a reservation to take it. Even in April, we had to wait so I suggest that you come here first and sign up for one of the tours. You can then either take the self-guided tour of the house or go to one of the other houses.
The tour begins outside in front of the house. We then walk around to the side and enter the house as the servants would have. We learn that the house was named for the elm trees that used to fill the yard. Dutch Elm diseases took care of that so today there are no Elms.
What you are going to see on this tour is how the hostesses of the Gilded Age made entertainment look effortless. The work took place out of the sight of the guests. With the help of call boxes, laundry rooms, large state of the art kitchens, butlers pantries to die for and even a coal tunnel with its own coal car the servants were able to keep everything running smoothly.
You begin with a climb up three flights of stairs to the servant's bedrooms. Some of them are set up as they would have looked. Most of them are shared rooms. There is, of course, a call box on this floor. Twenty-two people shared the 14 rooms and three bathrooms. If you have seen Downton Abbey, you have a pretty good idea what these rooms look like.
Now for the best part, you get to walk out onto the roof. You get a beautiful view of the grounds and some of the surrounding homes. This is a unique opportunity.
You now head down into the bowels of the house to see where the furnaces and the coal bin. The laundry and the drying room was next, I had to smile because I guess the Berwinds couldn’t have their laundry drying out in the backyard for their neighbors to see. Three people worked 24 hours a day, seven days a week to keep up with all the laundry. In Newport, 2500 residents worked as servants, 43 of them worked here at the Elms. 27 of them were outside servants, Mr. Berwind found any footprints in his white stone walkways to be unacceptable. The servants had to follow behind any quests who took a walk and get rid of any trace of their walk.
The kitchen as always is a fascinating place to visit. There is an ice box room with a big oak ice box. This was the pastry chef’s domain. The chefs that the Berwinds hired were trained by Escoffier and earn salaries that were astronomical even in 1900. The tour ends here in the kitchen and then it is off to the very fine gift shop. Keep in mind that there are a total of 82 stairs on this tour. That is quite a high number if you are not particularly fit.
Even if you have taken this tour in the past, it is worth giving it another go. New information obtained through research has been added about emigration and labor relations. The tour has been updated to reflect the new information. Be sure to check the Preservation Society of Newport County website for information about tour times. You will certainly enjoy the Servant Life Tour at The Elms.
If you are looking for a place to stay in Newport, I am a big fan of the Viking Hotel.
When I think of Dublin, Jameson Whiskey is one of the iconic things that come to mind. This is my second visit to the Jameson Distillery and I have to say that I didn't find the new tour to be half as interesting as the one I took two years ago.
It is totally different, no longer do you see a video introducing you to the history of Jameson's Whiskey, you don't get to walk around in the building and you don't really see anything to do with the production. I realize the Irish whiskey hasn't been distilled here in a while but making it into an interactive show didn't have nearly the same impact as the old tour.
Now you are escorted by a guide through the process in two rooms and though our guide was charming and knowledgeable I was unimpressed and felt the price of the tour, calling it a tour is not accurate it was a demonstration, was way too high. I was excited to do it again. This tour I would never do again and I see little reason to recommend it other than getting to compare the three shots of whiskey and your free drink afterward.
Several other distilleries in Dublin are now welcoming visitors. I have not visited those distilleries but I am thinking that perhaps they would be a better idea. Jameson Distillery, you have lost a fan.
